Ankara fabric quality varies enormously, and at first glance, a cheap imitation can look almost identical to a premium wax print. Here's what actually separates the two.
1. Check the wax finish
Genuine wax print fabric has a distinct waxy, slightly stiff hand-feel on both sides of the cloth. Cheaper alternatives feel flat, thin, or purely printed rather than waxed, and the coating often cracks or peels after a few washes.
2. Look at the back of the fabric
On authentic, high-quality Ankara, the pattern shows through clearly on the reverse side, though slightly softer than the front. If the back is mostly white or blank, it's likely a lower-grade print.
3. Check for color bleeding and crackle
Real wax print has intentional, fine crackle lines in the dye from the wax-resist process — this is a feature, not a flaw. What you don't want is color bleeding across pattern edges, which signals a poor, low-cost dyeing process.
4. Confirm the brand and source
Reputable Ankara brands like Chiganvy, Black Prince Deluxe, and Dogon Wax are known for consistent quality control. Buying from a seller who can name the specific brand and collection gives you far more confidence than an unmarked bolt of fabric.
5. Buy from a source that stands behind what it sells
A trusted local retailer will have already done the quality screening for you. Labelos Fabrics, based in Life Camp, Abuja, sources exclusively from established Ankara brands and lists the brand and collection on every product listing.
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